Look by Julien Fournié ©courtesy of Julien Fournié

Even if most designers would say there are no trends in haute couture, some of the previews of the collections hint at the opposite.
The maxi dress, for instance, which is the 'obsession du jour' in day and evening ready-to-wear, will make an impact on haute couture collections according to designer Gustavo Lins, who said that he expected "more generous volumes" and "long dresses worn with flat shoes" this season.
One might of course argue that long gowns have always been at the core of haute couture and the maxi dress that is new in casual wear isn't necessarily new in this field. But there are other prêt-à-porter trends that have influenced haute couture designers, such as spring's neutrals. Says designer Jan Taminiau: "There will be different shades of nude, liver and pale gray."
And while he stresses that "couture is meant to last and transcends trends," Taminiau has also noticed something else among young haute couture designers like himself: "A general tendency that I do perceive -- perhaps you could call it a trend -- is that lately young designers seem to have a renewed love for craftsmanship."
His colleague, Alexandre Vauthier, confirmed this, saying that for him, current haute couture was all about "essential materials and accurate cuts."
An interesting observation was made by Julien Fournié, who said that "today is not about shimmering shine, about in-your-face flash. [...] The style must reflect a more discreet elegance, less ostentatious, for insiders, with an aspect of mystery."
Givenchy apparently thinks along the same lines, having announced that it will present its haute couture collection by appointment only instead of on the runway this season. The likes of Chanel, Dior, Gaultier, and Valentino will stage fashion shows. Fournié, Vauthier, Taminiau, and Lins will all showcase theirs on the catwalk as part of haute couture week in Paris, kicking off July 5. Special delicacy this season: Jean Paul Gaultier will present the first lingerie in 30 years, prior to his La Perla collection launch later this year.- Relaxnews
A schedule can be found at www.modeaparis.com.

Published 04.07.2010